Other Interior Improvements

Floor sagging, warped or worn? In need of another bath or increased storage space? Such defects, even in older homes, are often corrected by a few simple steps and modest skills

A few simple steps will often transform a dangerous, unsightly old house into one that is safe and attractive.

Even serious defects often can be remedied easily. For instance, the floors of older homes often tend to sag at weak spots. Prospective home buyers may refuse to look further when they see such a condition, passing up what might be an exceptional bargain because they fail to realize that it can be repaired at low cost. An adjustable steel jack post, placed in the basement, can be used to lift the sagging floor. These inexpensive jack posts have an adjusting mechanism so that you can lift the floor by almost imperceptible amounts every few days. They will support ten tons permanently.

Old floors sometimes develop a spring and bounce up and down when you walk across them. This indicates that the floor joists are not well braced. You can provide bridging for the joists so that weight placed upon one is partially borne by the adjacent joist as well. Wood bridging, placed so that it connects joists at the center of the span, will help give your floor a solid feel.

Rooms that are too small are also characteristic of many older homes. More often than not, the partition between two small rooms can be removed to make one large room. If the partition does not support any joists or other overhead weight, it can simply be torn down. If it is a load-bearing partition, a long girder generally can be used to span the new opening and support joists or rafters.

Adding Storage Space

If you're a typical homeowner, you want more storage space. There are several reasons. You probably have more material possessions than ever before. You may have a bigger family than was the average 15 or 20 years ago. The solution to your storage problem? Try built-ins. Put them in spaces which would either be completely wasted or used inefficiently: under the stairs leading from the first floor to the basement, for example. This space generally is neglected because its low headroom makes it impractical as a walk-in closet. But if you use it for a home music center with radio, phonograph and television set or built-in desk, the low headroom will not be a liability.

Attic space often is wasted because it is difficult to reach. This is especially true of the area under the eaves. When built-ins utilize the space you can approach them standing erect. No stoop, no squat.

If you want extra room for built-ins, you might learn a few lessons from experts at utilizing scant space, the trailer-makers. They put storage space under the bed and over the bed. In one trailer, the entire bathroom wall, an area many homeowners consider too difficult to reach, is occupied by cabinets for linens and medicines. Another bank of storage cabinets occupies a wall in one end of the living room, over the sofa. In the kitchen, box-like compartments under dinette seats are used for storage.

An attic bathroom is an ideal location for built-ins. Usually the five feet or more of wall space over the toilet is wasted. You can use it for a cabinet for linens, bath towels and soap.

Over the lavatory, and along the adjacent wall you can build-in an oversize medicine compartment. Under the sink is space for a built-in hamper for dirty clothing.

If you have small children, a good idea is to build in a drawer below your vanity. The drawer should have a hinged cover that can support a child. He pulls out the lower drawer, steps on it, and thus can use the sink conveniently.

You can make your own built-ins, or have them custom-built to your specifications. You should be able to build your own; you probably can get good results without too much trouble. It is first necessary to make exact measurements of the space you'll use. Nail in studs and headers to form the frame around the built-in. This rough framework need not be a model of neatness. You probably can use 2x4s left over from other home-improvement projects.

United States Gypsum photos

These before and after views show how the stairs-entrance hall of an older house can be spectacularly updated. The paint, stair covering, louvered door and beige vinyl floor tiles work wonders. Planter's face is a molded plastic; the light above former catch-all tricks plants into growth.

Built-ins—the most natural route to increased storage space

Framed by tastefully-chosen wallpaper, this handsome pine built-in utilizes space that would be totally wasted otherwise. In addition to the wardrobe at far left, it affords generous shelf space and pull-down desk with cupboard below it. Study the recommended construction details that accompany this built-in and others on the pages that follow.

The serviceability of this one belies the simplicity of its construction. Besides plentiful hidden storage, it has a spacious top that could fill a variety of roles— writing surface, vanity, or merely as an attractive site for indoor gardening. For certain uses, topping of one of the plastic laminates warrants consideration.

Western Pine photos

Built-ins for the children's rooms

Sliding doors of contrasting colors that top this fine built-in conceal areas that are good for seldom-used items such as luggage. Hooks on the perforated hard-board make a storage display outside the closet that is sure to appeal to juveniles. Varying sizes of the drawers can easily be further modified to suit your needs.

Hardboard Assn.

This room divider-built-in was designed to provide some measure of privacy as well as storage for the two teen-age sisters who share the room. Note that the material matches paneling of the walls. Scalloped top and shelving's side trim is attuned to overall decor of the bright and airy room.

Western Pine

An enclosure for your high-fidelity equipment

Designed by Paul Jensen

An improvement for any room that has seen exposed hi-fi gear gather dust is this cabinet for record changer, tape recorder, amplifier, tuner, preamp, speakers and storage. All major parts are cut from two 4x8 panels of ¾-inch plywood: red birch veneer for all exposed surfaces. plain fir otherwise. Cutting schedule for the red birch is just below. Stop dadoes are made 16¼ inches from each end of the top and bottom and l0¾ inches from top inside each side for middle shell.

Above is the cutting schedule for the fir plywood. Diagram below clarifies details of construction; study it carefully. After grooves and miters are made, invert top on two saw-horses and begin assembly. All exposed edges are covered with matching stripping or Woodtape. Space for amplifier is adjacent to tuner; woofer and tweeters go below them. Dimensions of tape-recorder drawer can be modified for your own machine. The "full-blast audiophile" may wish to mount record changer on foam rubber to minimize danger of stylus vibration. After sealing, cabinet of example was finished with light oak stain.

Other ideas for the audiophile

Spanning an entire wall, this beautiful high-fidelity built-in may suggest ideas suitable to your own needs. Loosely-woven cane of the doors provides ventilation for the components, does not impede passage of sound.

Custom Division, Allied Radio

Wealth of storage included in this complete entertainment center is revealed when the doors are open. Note tape recorder, record changer in pull-out drawers. The stereo speakers are at the top left and right.

Minnesota Mining & Mfg.

Other possibilities lor the high-fidelity addict are suggested by this family music room. Wall is plywood paneled, with stereophonic speakers located below the smart arrangement of bookshelves.

Beyond the panel that mounts high-fidelity components in this strikingly unproved basement room is the laundry room. It is an easy matter to get to back of equipment for maintenance, adjustment.

The hi-fi components are readily accessible. They are mounted in standard relay racks, trimmed with molding, which contributes a great deal to the smart appearance. Turntable is in pull-out drawer.

You build more efficiency into a closet by covering inner surfaces of doors with perforated hardboard. You can change the items displayed—those soon needed—by merely switching hooks and brackets.

In making the built-in itself, allow for space between the rough framing and the finished unit. It should fit into position easily. The space between its edges and the wall it fits into can be covered by molding. It is a good idea to affix the built-in at a few points to a floor or wall. Use screws which you can easily remove later if you have to.

Adding a Bathroom

You probably can squeeze another bathroom into your home if you need one. Bathroom fixtures will fit into much less space than you probably imagine. For instance, a space 4 by 5 feet is all you need for a powder room. The wash basin and water closet will line up along one wall and leave you plenty of room to move about.

In a 6x6 space you can get a standard-sized stall shower, plus the other two fixtures. If you want a bathtub, and will use a special 41/2-foot length instead of the usual 5-foot, you can work a three-fixture bathroom into a room 4½ feet wide and as little as 7 feet long—a total of only 32 square feet. About the only change you'll have to make is to have the door open outward instead of in. You can fit a regulation tub into a 5x7 room—and open the door in.

Where can you find the space? You may be able to convert a walk-in closet into a powder room or even into a full bathroom. Two back-to-back closets usually provide space for a full bath. You can partition off a 3-foot strip of an existing room, and work in a stall shower at one end, water closet at the other, and wash basin on the wall opposite the door.

You can easily work a bathroom into an area of low floor-to-ceiling height. For instance, you can use attic space under sloping eaves to obtain the 6 feet 6 inch headroom needed for a shower. An even lower ceiling won't bother anyone taking a tub bath. You can also locate fixtures under the stairs.

You can readily plan your own bathroom layout, but keep these dimensions in mind: A wash basin, plus necessary room on the sides and in front, needs at least 24 inches along the wall and a depth of 36 inches. A water closet plus elbow room needs a minimum of 30 inches wall space and 48 inches depth. A small stall shower measures 30 inches by 30 inches; a small tub 30 inches wide, 54 inches long. Access to these could be the space in front of the other fixtures.

Hardboard Assn. left; United States Gypsum photos this page

Lazy Susan eliminates wasted corner. Such units can be purchased or constructed as indicated.

Don't overlook the need for structural safety, however. Most houses have floor joists that will carry a live load of 40 pounds per square foot. Ceramic tile on mortar weighs approximately 30 pounds per square foot, and some bathtubs weigh up to 3 pounds per square foot. Thus a conventional bathroom will weigh more than the floor was built to hold.

Common 2x8 fir joists 16 inches on center, which are ordinarily used for floors, should have a span of only about 8 feet if they are to hold up loads of 60 pounds per square foot or more. Two by ten fir joists will safely carry a 60-pound load almost 13 feet. So if you intend using cast-iron fixtures and tile on mortar, you may have to reinforce the joists.

If the new bathroom is to be on the first floor, you can run a strong beam under the center span of the floor joists, perpendicular to them. A six by eight beam should carry the added weight. Support it on its ends by a steel jack—the kind sold by most building suppliers these do-it-yourself days.

Extra baths in small spaces

UTILIZEUNDER STABS

COMPLETE BATHROOM UNDER EAVES IN ATTIC - FINISHED OR PLAIN

Low headroom can be used in this manner to add convenience of first-floor bath in older house. Wash basins, water closets align back to back economically in the closet conversion just below.

One method of utilizing under-eaves space for extra bath. Low headroom won't bother tub-bather, If bedroom or other room is of good size, consider partition along wall as indicated below.

When two closets can be sacrificed, a layout such as the one below is well worth your consideration.

Remember the weight added by fixtures and tile flooring. Add strength to the joists as below.

American-Standard

Space that was formerly a china closet plus a small bit of under-stair space was utilized in this older house. Plan for good ventilation. Though windowless baths were once unthinkable, modem ventilating fans have killed off that school of thought.

Tile Council

Almost any nook or cranny has possibilities for at least a powder room. Cabinets below the lavatory shown in photograph at the right provide valuable added storage. In planning the added bath don't overlook any built-in that will save you floor space.

How to install wallboard

1. Where possible use largest sheets (4x12 ft.). Two men can handle these panels easily, as shown.

2. Gypsum wallboard is easily cut. First, score surface paper with a sharp knife in this manner.

3. Next, put score mark over piled boards and snap at mark. Turn panel over, repeat procedure.

4. To make the material conform to curve, score back paper at intervals, break core beneath cuts.

5. To conceal joints, butter channel with a pre-coat of cement. Apply reinforcing tape.

6. Embed it in cement with moderate pressure. Remove move excess cement but leave tape thinly coated.

United States Gypsum photos

7. Joint cement is used for nailheads. hammer dimples. In most cases, three coats are required.

8. lf sanding is necessary, use minimum pressure. Avoid sanding the surface of the wallboard.

9. Professionals use these metal comer beads around outside corners, at window, door openings.

10. They are merely nailed into place, cemented over, and are invisible beneath coat of paint.

11. These comer beads protect edges, prevent damage when wallboard is bumped by furniture.

If you must strengthen attic-floor joists for a bathroom, however, you may have to remove the subflooring in the area planned for the bathroom, and put down extra joists, nailing them to existing ones and resting them on the bearing partitions below.

Where to locate your bathroom? Remember that you must hook into existing water supply and waste disposal lines. You must also provide a vent pipe for your new fixtures—an exit for gases which may develop in the system. It's good planning to add the room near another bath or the kitchen, because the greater distance you move from existing plumbing, the higher your material and labor costs will be.

You must also arrange your new plumbing lines to avoid weakening your existing studs or joists. Don't notch more than one fourth of their depth, or drill through their wide face more than l¼ inches in a 4-inch stud, or 2 inches in a 6-inch stud. Notch them in the top or bottom surface and in the end thirds of the span only. The notch should not exceed one sixth of the depth of the joist except next to the bearing partition. Holes should not be more than 2 inches in diameter unless they are within two inches of the bearing partition. This means that tubing can be run through joists but that soil pipes must go under or over them.

You can't overlook the importance of using the right pipes. Most codes specify sizes and types. A safe guide to what probably applies in your town is to measure the pipe already in. Note the size of the water line as it approaches the bathroom—before any branches for individual fixtures come off it—and also the size of the pipe running to each of the faucets or outlets.

Other wall surfacing

Another popular surfacing for old walls or new construction is Panelok —2x8-ft. hardboard panels that are held against splines and fixtures. Workman fits panel into a corner spline in the photograph at the left.

Masonite photos

Nails attach splines to studs or furring strips. Panels come in four shades of walnut, random grooved or plain. Workman here lines up holes in metal splines so that attached fixtures will mount perfectly level.

Completed project. Note the bookshelves and wall-hung cabinet. They are hung on fixtures, supported by the splines. Objects can be hung at any point, as perforations in the splines are at one-inch intervals.
How to correct floor sag

First, determine the extent of floor sag with a long straight board and level as demonstrated here.

Next, locate and drill holes (or the base plate of the basement beneath the sagging floor joist.

Lag screws or bolts and expansion plugs are lack post in used to secure the base plate to the floor.

Post fits over lips on the base held fast by compression.

The telescoping tube is extended and secured with its locking pin.

Joist is then raised a little weekly and is until the floor is completely level.

How to install a prefab chimney

1. Economy, ease of installation are strong recommendations for this neat factory-built chimney.

2. Chimney support is placed in prepared opening, positioned, and nailed to the joists and headers.

 

3. Insulation pad and thimble are next inserted, followed by first section of the masonry flue.

4. Flue sections are cemented in place with high-temperature joint cement, part of the chimney kit.

5. Snap-lock drawbands are applied over joints and procedure is repeated to roof of the house.

6. Adjustable, leak-proof flashing (provided by chimney manufacturer) is installed about opening.

The F.H.A. lists the following as minimum supply and disposal lines to bathroom fixtures:

Fixture              Hot                  Cold                 Soil or              Vent
                        Water               Water               Waste            
Water Closet    —                    3/8"                  3"x4"                2"
Lavatory           3/8"                  3/8"                  l¼"                   l¼"
Shower            ½"                    ½"                    2"                     l¼"
Bathtub            ½"                    2"                     l½"                   l¼"

Many communities also require that each fixture have a trap—a U-shaped fitting that keeps gases that may accumulate in the sewage line from backing up into the house. Each trap must connect to a vent line, which runs up to the roof and opens to the air.

If you have a sewer, you probably can add as many bathrooms as you like with a minimum of problems. With a septic tank, however, you might have to tread lightly.

Van-Packer Company photos

7. Flue extends two it. above roof ridge. Housing cap is set on it. Measure for height of housing.

8. Score and cut housing panels for height and roof pitch. Cut. screw on stripping, anchor clips.

9. Panels slide together to form locked housing that is securely attached to roof with screws.

10. With fastening of cap. installation is complete—at saving of 20-40% over brick types.

Update your home's heating system

Modern heating systems add to the comfort, appearance and permanent value of the home. These glass sections are electric radiant baseboard heaters that follow room's contours and permit you to build in electrical outlets wherever you desire.

Easily mounted on the wall, this l,250-watt glass electric radiant heater will provide sufficient heat for any small room you might add to your home. There are many electrical heaters available; some have thermostats that work along with timers.

This particular unit is easily connected to home's electrical system through an existing outlet, as shown.

The F.H.A. figures minimum capacities of septic tanks on the basis of bedrooms in the house rather than bathrooms, so if you're just adding a bathroom, you needn't worry. In case you are putting in new bedrooms at the same time (in your attic, say), you'd better keep these requirements in mind:

For two bedrooms or less, a tank of 750-gallon capacity; three bedrooms, 900 gallons; four bedrooms, 1,000 gallons; and for each additional bedroom, add 250 gallons.

If you have a septic tank, a basement bathroom may be out of the question. That's because your waste line from the cellar must be pitched downward, since water doesn't run uphill of its own accord. But unless your house is on a slope, the septic tank inlet is probably located high above the cellar floor. Unless you want to put in a whole new tank layout, you may have to find a different bathroom location.

Community sewer lines usually run below the basement floor level, but sometimes builders take sewer lines out of the house nearer the first floor than the basement floor. You might have to rerun a connection to the community sewer under your foundation, so that drainage from basement fixtures would run down into it To dig down and re-lay the pipes would cost hundreds of dollars, however.

Don't forget to plan for good bathroom ventilation. Until recently, bathrooms without windows were almost unthinkable. Now indoor bathrooms—those placed in the center of the house—are being seen more and more often. Some builders deliberately plan them that way.

Reasons for the new trend are two: Drafts are eliminated since there's no window to chill you while you're in the tub or shower; and ventilation is automatic when you use a fan that turns on with the light switch and tugs odors and moisture to a ceiling duct to the exterior. As long as you have such a fan, an indoor bathroom will get the O.K. of most mortgage-making institutions.

Laying a New Floor

If your old floors are warped or worn, you can put down new strip flooring of either hardwood, such as oak, or softwoods like maple. Oak is probably the most widely used. It comes in various grades, depending upon the number of knots, but all grades wear about the same.

Flooring comes in random lengths— from 8 to 16 feet for pine floors, and from about 18 inches to 16 feet for hardwood— and in widths up to about 41/4 inches. Flooring of 23/8 inches is preferred. Any tendency to open up at the joints is reduced in proportion to width. And since nailing is at closer intervals, there is less danger of the floor buckling.

Don't underestimate the amount of flooring you will need. The width of the flooring is not what it is represented to be. If you are using oak said to be l½ inches wide, first get the room size in square feet and then add 50 per cent. Your best bet is to take your room measurements to your lumber dealer and ask him how much material you will need.

Before laying a finished floor, cover the subfloor with building paper, floor felt or gypsum board, to prevent air infiltration. Try to lay the flooring so that it runs lengthwise and passes from room to room without a break.

This vented panel with built-in thermostat fastens with screws and the front grille is slipped into place.

Air conditioning an older home

The owner of this three-story, "wet-heat" residence, perched atop a cliff-side plot in Yonkers, N. Y., chose to have a water-cooled type of air conditioning system. This made it unnecessary to use limited outdoor space lor equipment. The Carrier unit, shown installed in basement, is a compressor of three-ton cooling capacity.

Air conditioning system embraces two parts, the basement refrigerating cycle, and fan-coil unit in the attic. Refrigerant is piped from cellar.

Filter, easily removable for periodic replacement, is inserted at the end of fan-coil unit which leads into the three-story home's new air-duct system.

Homes with hot-water or steam heat require duct system for cooled air. Ceiling grille in upper hall delivers air for stairwell area from duct.
Duct-work risers are located where possible in a comer of closet. One duct went through comer of a room. Here, hole is cut in floor for riser.

Where possible, diffusers of conditioned air ore cut into the ceiling, in preference to grillework in walls, Diffuser cover is screwed on in this shot.

In basement playroom, Al Wieder, who designed the system, chose to place a wall grille in the book shell, where it blends with surroundings.

Duct-work riser in stairwell is covered with wallpaper to blend inconspicuously in the background. Most risers were carried up through the closets.

Duct work is concealed in this closet, just inside doorframe, by false wall. Shelving cut into false wall, in back of duct, contributes storage space.
Sam Ross photos, courtesy Carrier Corporation

Thirty-year-old house, with several rooms added in recent years, called for more complex system than most. Need for full ductwork installation brought cost from $1,400 (for house of similar size with warm-air heat) to $2,500. Air conditioning for new house would have cost owner about $1,200.

How to install strip flooring

1. If your floor is warped or worn, install a new one like the strip oak that gets final polish here.

2. String is used as guide in laying first course parallel to wall, grooved side flush against it.

3. Drive the individual strips in place all across room, toenailing. using second nail as nail-set.

4. Lay out strips ahead of present course, so the joints are kept staggered—by at least a loot.

5. Fit flooring carefully around projections. In buying, remember strips' width is exaggerated.

6. Two feet from final wall, check that strips parallel it. Final strip is being forced snug here.

7. Molding will conceal slight imperfections at edges. Entire appearance depends on finishing.

8. An edger sands well where large machine fails. Only sealing and finishing remain; refer to text.

Make absolutely certain that the first strip is parallel to the wall, its grooved side flush with the wallboard, plaster or other wall surface. Lay out the strips on the floor so that you can keep the joints staggered by at least a foot. Then drive the strips in place all across the room. Drive each nail nearly home, then rest the head of another nail against it to serve as a nailset.

If strips do not fit into place easily, hammer them in with a block. Fit a cut-off piece of wood flooring against them and hammer it until the permanent strip is in place. When you are within two feet of the opposite wall, check again to make sure that the strips parallel the walls. If not, plane the grooved edges of the remaining pieces until the strips do parallel the wall. The last piece should parallel the baseboard. Install the baseboard slightly above the finish floor and nail shoe molding to it after the entire floor is down.

Block flooring can be laid in much the same way as strips. Blocks must be fastened together at intervals along their length as well as at the ends. Screws often are used to fasten them. Recommended methods of putting down unit-block and parquet floors vary, depending upon the manufacturer. Your dealer can give you instructions on the best way to handle them.

The appearance of your floor will largely depend upon the finishing operations. Sanding is important. Electric machines which you can rent do an efficient job quickly. Three sanding cuts are recommended for the average floor, although sometimes you can get acceptable results with only two.

Oak floors can also be varnished to provide a glossy appearance. Varnish resists some stains and spots, but shows scratches. If you use varnish, select a type made especially for floors. Wood floors also take shellac. This has a high gloss and dries quickly.

Floor seal also can be used. It does not form a surface coating but penetrates the wood fibers and becomes part of the wood itself. It wears only as the wood wears, does not chip or scratch, and is immune to stains and spots. It does not provide a shiny appearance but can be waxed and polished for an attractive luster.

Floor seal is either colorless or colored, in normal-drying or rapid-drying types. It generally is applied across the grain first, then smoothed out in the direction of the grain. You can apply it with a string mop or a pad of lamb's wool. But first rub the floor with steel wool. Use a power buffer or a sanding machine with steel wool pads, unless you prefer to do it by hand.

That's about the end of the flooring story. We now seem to have visited just about every room in the house and discussed its most common ailments. Let's see what can be done about the house that's too small for that family of yours. Turn the page. ·

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